Traction battery
pack capacity

Select the 200 mile tab before reading anything. The 10 and 100 mile tabs reflect the last few miles rather than the car, and will give a different answer. Then take the consumption figure, and the line beneath it comparing it to Rated.

Not in the Energy app. This is the small battery symbol in the status bar along the very top of the main screen, right of centre, beside the driver name. Touch the battery icon to swap it between miles and percent — read one, tap, read the other. Do it with the car parked and not charging so nothing moves between the two readings. Above 80% charge is more accurate.

For valuing a car you cannot touch — an auction listing, a seller's photo. Projected Range multiplied by the average consumption gives the energy remaining directly, because that is how the car worked out the projection. The consumption cancels, so it does not matter which tab was showing or how the seller drove.

Take both from the same tab. The consumption is the Wh/mi figure the projection is based on. On a Highland it sits directly under the Projected Range heading, above the line comparing it to Rated. On an earlier car it is the Avg. box at the left edge of the graph. Do not use the Wh/mi on a trip card, or on Current Drive or Since Charge — the car does not project from those.

The arithmetic here is as precise as the full method — both recover the same energy figure, and the state of charge limits them equally. What is missing is verification. You cannot tell when the photograph was taken or what the car had been doing, nothing can be re-read if a figure looks wrong, and a single reading cannot show the movement in the estimate that repeat readings would. Use it to decide what to bid against, then measure properly on collection.

Take these from the car at the end of the drive, all at the same moment.